UMI NORI x RAMP TRAMP TRAMP STAMP
01.07.2020
Photographs and words by Zi
Zac Panyar models the ‘No Sleep’ suit handmade by our tailors in Sydney, using blood red silk velvet, screen printed with Niamh’s ‘secret’ acid recipe.
The decision to collaborate with long time friend and designer Niamh Galea (Ramp Tramp Tramp Stamp) came as naturally as our friendship. Niamh’s history as a self-taught seamstress evolved in to a love of creating genderless, size inclusive garments generally crafted from excess or dead stock fabric. Majoring in fashion design at Sydney’s University of Technology, the suit we designed together would be incorporated as a feature piece for her final collection to be presented on the UTS runway in the Spring of 2018. Niamh has since been living abroad, studying at Parsons School of Fashion in New York, after receiving a full scholarship to attend, which is a testament to her talent and ability. She is currently back in Sydney over the American summer break, prompting us to shoot the suit properly for the first time and collaborate on more projects together.
Details of the screen print.
With a plethora of ideas and a self prescribed mission to make the fashion industry a more inclusive and positive space, Niamh turns run of the mill fabrics in to works of art for her label Ramp Tramp Tramp Stamp. She came to UMI NORI with a fascinating silk velvet textile and a loose idea for a double breasted unisex suit. For this fabric, Niamh screen printed with a secret recipe acid paste on to a roll of blood red silk velvet. This hand devoré process burns the silk pile of the velvet away, creating an engraved look with sheerness amongst the rich velvet. With this in mind we felt the best approach was an unlined jacket with no padding. The drawings and poetic words printed are drawn from moments and emotions in her personal life and often acts as a love letter to her friends. The core inspiration for this textile was centred around myself, with obscure references to our friendship peppered all over. The “No Sleep” suit was made as part of a larger collection; ‘Super Lust Fuck, Where Love Blooms’ which acted as a mashup of incongruent ideas and personal reflection and with a focus on gender and size flexibility that has come to underpin the Ramp Tramp Tramp Stamp label. It seemed only natural that she come to UMI NORI to piece the suit together.
At UMI NORI we aim to deliver a modern and thoughtful approach to suiting whilst staying authentic to tailoring tradition. What we accomplished with this piece, I think, shows exactly that. The presence of the more traditional notch lapel, patch pockets and double breasted finish paired with brass floral buttons and no padding or lining whatsoever emphasised the beauty of the silk velvet and allowed it to beautifully drape, falling so elegantly on whoever wears it.
Niamh has since extended her stay in Sydney as a result of Parsons deferring all courses until January due to the coronavirus, and because of this, we have decided to recreate the alluring silk velvet to offer a limited production of the ‘No Sleep’ suit, made to order. Each garment will be handmade by our master tailor in Sydney, and will be available for sale in the coming weeks, online at terminalsix.com and UMINORI.com respectively. Until then, check out the rest of the photos from our shoot below.
- Z
Zac Panyar - Chadwick Models
@uminori.atelier
@ramptramptrampstamp
@zac_panyar